By Martian Auctions
A big checklist of woodworking plans and howtos. Very minimum e-book, with ample content material.
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Additional resources for 6,500 Woodworking Projects
Complicating this process even further is the fact that the shoulders have to be undercut so that they form a sharp knifelike edge. This is necessary so the shoulders make tight contact with the round base. Maintaining an accurate alignment along the full 5 1/4" length of these shoulders is very tricky, but not as tricky as cutting the face of the dovetail. This cut begins on the end grain of the leg and, like the shoulder, was a full 5 1/4" long. The saw delights in wandering to one side. After having made several of these stands with hand-cut sliding dovetails, I'm ready to suggest some alternatives.
Then, with a C-clamp and a couple of scrap pads, I glued the sliver to the side of the tusk tenon after sliding one end of the sliver into the 1/16" gap. When the glue had dried, I cut away the excess and blended the sliver into the curve at the end of the tusk tenon. The gap hadn't made the joint structurally unsound, and the glued on sliver did conceal the gap, but this wasn't a perfect solution. When that particular tusk tenon is sighted from above, it's clear that there's a little more material on one side of the walnut wedge than there is on the other.
This knife line will provide a reliable means for aligning the chisels with which the mortise will be given its final shape. Copyright 2004 Martian Auctions 48 Copyright 2004 Martian Auctions 49 CUTTING THROUGH MORTISES (CONTINUED) 2 Then, remove waste with a handheld drill and a Forstner bit. With a paring chisel and a wooden mallet, define the walls of the mortise. 1 Sand parts before assembly, even though additional sanding will be necessary later Copyright 2004 Martian Auctions 4 Mark the tusk tenons on the upper and lower shelves using the mortises as guides.
6,500 Woodworking Projects by Martian Auctions